When working flat, the increases are kept away from the edges so seams and borders stay neat. In the round, the groups simply repeat around.
Gauge, explained
Gauge, or tension, is how many stitches and rows you get in a set width and height, usually 10 cm or 4 inches. It depends on the yarn, the needle or hook, the stitch pattern and, above all, the person knitting. Two knitters following the same pattern with the same yarn can end up with different sizes. That is why patterns state a gauge, and why matching it, or adjusting for it, matters. KnitGauge does the arithmetic once you have counted.
Making and measuring a swatch
Knit a square at least 15 cm or 6 inches across in the stitch pattern the project uses, on the needles you plan to use. Wash and dry it the way you will treat the finished piece, because many yarns relax or bloom. Lay it flat without stretching and count stitches over a distance in the middle, away from the edges. You do not need exactly 10 cm: count over whatever you can measure accurately and enter both numbers, and the calculator converts it to a standard gauge.
From gauge to stitch counts
Multiply the width you want by your stitches per centimetre or inch to get the cast-on number. If the stitch pattern has a repeat, such as a multiple of 4 plus 2 for 2×2 rib, enter it and the count is rounded to the nearest number that fits, with the actual width shown. Rows work the same way for length, though many patterns simply say to work until the piece measures a certain length.
When your gauge does not match
If you have more stitches per 10 cm than the pattern, your fabric is tighter and the piece will come out smaller; fewer stitches means larger. The usual fix is to change needle size, going up a size if you have too many stitches. If you like your fabric as it is, the converter tells you how many stitches to use instead to reach the pattern’s measurements.
Increasing and decreasing evenly
To spread shaping across a row, divide the stitches into groups as equal as possible and place one increase or decrease between groups. When some groups must be a stitch longer, the extra stitches are spread across the row rather than bunched at one end. Working flat, the first and last groups keep the shaping away from the edges. For shaping spread over many rows, such as sleeve tapers, the row spacing tool tells you how often to work a shaping row. Everything you enter is saved only in this browser.
Frequently asked questions
Which increase should I use?
M1L or M1R are nearly invisible. Kfb works too but leaves a small bar.
Why are some groups one stitch longer?
When stitches do not divide exactly, the extra stitches are spread across the row.
Can I increase in purl rows?
Yes. Use the same spacing with purl and M1P.
Is KnitGauge free?
Yes, with no sign-up or ads.
Are my numbers saved?
Yes, in this browser only.